Chaos to Calm (and back again)
Can’t stop, won’t stop. The big catch up continues and it’s a doozy because we are in BRAZIL, baby. 🇧🇷
Carnaval
We had barely a moment to explore the somewhat normal streets of Recife before the throngs of revellers descended upon the city for Carnaval.
And then we joined them. For three joyful, loud, intense days, we threw ourselves into the festivities.
Not normally our bag (anymore!)… but when in Rome. Here’s the report.
Day 1 — Recife, Galo da Madrugada
Day one was spent in Recife for Galo da Madrugada, officially recognised as the largest street carnival parade in the world, drawing well over a million people each year. David and I had tickets to a camarote, one of the private, elevated viewing balconies along the route, complete with food, drinks, and, crucially, bathrooms. These are adult-only affairs, so Elliot stayed back on Pure Joy with Francesca.
Our guide met us at the marina at 8am and handed us our neon green t-shirts, which doubled as our tickets into the camarote. What I didn’t realise at the time was that these shirts are not simply worn. They are transformed. Throughout the day I became increasingly impressed by the creativity on display, as Brazilians turned their standard issue t-shirts into elaborate outfits and costumes. Each camarote has its own design, and people customise them with serious flair. Ours even had a small stand where a team of women would help you rework your shirt. Naturally, I got involved.
Once up on the balcony, we looked out over a sea of people stretching as far as the eye could see. The crowd moved slowly through the streets, punctuated by enormous truck floats blasting music, live bands, performers, and huge community groups dancing their way through the city. At one point we learned that the street we were on holds the Guinness World Record for the largest carnival party in the world - which felt about right.
Directly across from us was the camarote of Brazil’s president, Luiz Inácio Lula da Silva, (AKA ‘Lula’) and when he appeared, the crowd went absolutely wild. There were TV reporters stationed in our camarote too, broadcasting live just a few metres away from where we stood.
David and I were quietly quite impressed with ourselves for making it until 3pm. At which point we retreated to our dark, quiet cabin aboard Pure Joy for a much-needed nap in preparation for round two.
Day 2 — Olinda
Day two took us to Olinda, a colourful colonial town just 20 minutes from Recife, known for its cobbled streets, historic buildings, and slightly more chaotic, free-flowing style of Carnaval.
Our guide picked the three of us up at 9:30am and brought us to our base for the day, Oficina do Sabor, a charming restaurant run by well-known local chef César Santos. From here we had a rare luxury, a private, air-conditioned space overlooking the street, where we could dip in and out of the festivities as needed.
And after day one, that flexibility was very welcome.
Carnaval in Olinda felt different. Still loud. Still wild and insanely crowded. But more organic. There was no clear route or structure. Local bands and community groups simply flowed through the narrow streets, weaving their way up and down the hills, with crowds dancing along behind them.
We could step into the energy when we wanted, then retreat to our cool, calm sanctuary when we needed a breather. We were the only non-Brazilians in the restaurant, and the staff could not have been more generous. Food and drinks appeared regularly, along with special treats for Elliot. They pointed out moments not to miss and even set up a perfect viewing spot for Elliot so he could watch everything from a safe perch. We felt so grateful to be in such a comfortable spot.
Day 3 — Recife, Family Style
For day three we returned to Recife, this time to a different area focused more on family-friendly celebrations. We wandered through blocos, the local street parties that form the backbone of Brazilian Carnaval, each with its own music, costumes, and personality, and stopped to watch performances on outdoor stages along the way.
Elliot was in his element. Confetti and “snow” spray filled the air and were used with complete abandon. It was impossible to stay clean, and equally impossible not to laugh. We saw some of our favourite costumes of the entire festival here.
We walked back to the marina and had a quiet dinner on board Pure Joy, feeling exhausted but quite pleased with ourselves. Carnaval. Done and done. While incredible, we were ready for something a bit less hectic to say the least.
But Brazil is vast. And there was so much more to explore, so answering the question of what would come next felt a bit overwhelming. After much debate, we decided to head for the Amazon rainforest.
And we were not disappointed.
Amazon Rainforest
We had a few days to fill before heading to the Amazon and, if I’m honest, we were a bit desperate to get out of the marina, which was sadly clogged with trash. So we escaped to a lovely resort about an hour south of Recife.
There, we began to gather ourselves after the intensity of Carnaval. And it didn’t take long to realise that a few days of proper tranquility were exactly what we needed. The adventure had worn us down in ways we hadn’t quite noticed. We wanted to feel clear and ready for the final weeks of this expedition.
We started to find that grounding at the resort. And then, even more so, deep in the Amazon Rainforest.
We flew first to Manaus, where we were meant to take a three-hour bus transfer to Anavilhanas Lodge. But we had secretly arranged something else: a seaplane! Elliot’s face when he found out was worth it alone. We climbed aboard with our friends Tess and Richard, and from the moment we lifted off, it felt like the adventure had reset itself.
We landed on a wooden dock stretching out into the Rio Negro, right in front of the lodge. Fifteen minutes later, we were back out on the water, fishing for piranha. Elliot was in his element. What struck me most, almost immediately, was the stillness.
Over the next few days we headed out on a number of excursions. Canoeing in the rain. Visiting a local village. A quiet sunrise exploration. Each outing had a purpose. Spotting wildlife. Learning about the ecosystem.
But really, we were just being there. Surrounded by it. Slowed by it in a way that’s hard to explain. I’ve nearly circled the planet now, and I’m not sure I’ve ever felt as calm, grounded and at peace as I did in the Amazon Rainforest.
By the time we made our way back to Recife, something had shifted. I felt ready again. Open to whatever the final stretch of this adventure had to offer.
Which was fortunate. Because the next part was something I had been looking forward to for quite a while.
Huge thanks to Dawn Voyage, who tamed the chaos and curated the calm of Brazil for us. She’s a travel magician, folks - check her out!
Joyriders
This story starts back in Durban. Remember that not-so-desirable marina along the east coast of South Africa? Well, something wonderful did come out of that pit stop.
We were having lunch with friends at the yacht club when someone mentioned that the ARC had an all-female boat this year. (Sadly, this is still rare. Sailing remains a very male-dominated sport, and I’d guess most of the women in the World ARC fleet have felt that at one point or another.)
“That would be so much fun,” I said.
“You should do that for a leg of the World ARC,” David replied.
(Swoon. I really did marry the most supportive, trusting and wonderfully chill captain.)
My mind immediately started ticking through the logistics.
“Francesca could skipper… we could get the mums on board for a leg… you and Elliot could hop onto another boat…”
Within minutes, we had the World ARC rally schedule open and were scanning for options. There was one viable leg left: Recife to Fernando de Noronha.
Francesca had stepped away during this conversation. By the time she came back, a plan had been formed and she had been appointed leader. Of course, she was completely up for it.
What followed was four months of planning, paperwork, logistics, coordination and a fair amount of problem solving behind the scenes. And then, on March 4th, after a couple of false starts thanks to a broken ice maker and a torn mainsail, the Joyriders set off from Recife on Pure Joy, bound for Fernando de Noronha.
Nothing about this leg was exactly smooth sailing. Which, in a strange way, felt entirely fitting.
We faced equipment failures and mid-passage fixes. Family worries unfolding on other boats. Rough seas. Seasickness. Winds that refused to cooperate.
And through it all, we adapted. We problem-solved. We laughed. We supported each other. We kept going.
There is something powerful about a group of women navigating the messy middle together.
We crossed the finish line on the eve of International Women’s Day. And I don’t think any of us will forget it.
Fernando de Noronha
After Pure Joy arrived in Fernando de Noronha. (and after a couple of well-earned celebratory beverages) the mums slowly peeled off back to their own boats and families, and David and Elliot rejoined us on board. 💜
This was a relatively quick stop. A chance to enjoy the island’s stunning beaches and its not-exactly-safe buggies, which are the main mode of transport. We soaked up the scenery, the sun, and a last caipirinha.
And then it was, unbelievably, time to make the final push back to where it all began.
Next up: The Final Passage, A Victory Lap and Closing Ceremonies